Daniel Berlin Review – Best Restaurant in Sweden

Cod, peas, flowers at Daniel Berlin Review

Our Rating

I first read about Daniel Berlin in May 2015 and immediately contacted them to book a table. Some of the dates in late August that I suggested were already unavailable, so I booked the Saturday at the end of September for Stewart’s birthday. That became our inside joke, as clearly I am the one who is food obsessed and even though Stewart enjoys good food, his choice of a birthday weekend would likely involve more physical, more outdoor based activities, and fork lifting doesn’t seem to qualify!

We then scored a booking at Noma, and the weekend really became all about food, and long tasting menus. After our dinner at Noma on Friday night, we had mixed emotions. Did we really sign up for two back-to-back dinners with over 20 course menus? However when we were at Noma and mentioned to Katherine Bont that we were headed to Daniel Berlin in the morning, she got very excited, and mentioned that she had been wanting to go for a long time and was actually finally going just one week after our visit.

Daniel Berlin is located an hour north of Malmo and a very nice drive from Copenhagen. We had a booking to stay at Munka Tagarp (review on a separate post), which is Monica and Fredrik’s residence with an annex where they rent rooms out. They drove us to dinner and we were welcomed by Daniel Berlin who was waiting for us outside. (maybe Monica’s husband send him an sms alert that we were arriving?) It was a very nice way to start the evening.

Daniel Berlin Sweden

Daniel Berlin waiting to greet us!

We were taken to our table by the hostess, Daniel Berlin’s mother, and his father, the sommelier came by immediately to welcome us too. The dining rooms fits around 15 people and it is simple but beautifully set up.

Daniel Berlin Review

Daniel Berlin’s father, the sommelier

What we ate: 

We started off with a series of delicious nibbles that were all very tasty.

Dried onion with lovage and rye: an almost transparent rye cracker with a sweet onion concoction.

Dried onion with lovage and rye at Daniel berlin Sweden

Peppery stems, raw shrimps and apple: this dish was visually stunning with the apple frosted from being in the freezer (just for show and not to be consumed).

Peppery stems, raw shrimps and apple at Daniel Berlin Review

Don’t eat the apple!

Turnip in cod-stomach and dill: when I heard about the cod stomach, I have to admit I got slightly scared. It was a paper thin turnip and a little cod sandwich. The fish insides were tender and tasty, and not odd in any way.

Turnip in cod-stomach and dill at Daniel Berlin Review

I never thought I would say I loved cod stomach!

Roasted skin, rhubarb and quail eggs: this was one of the best snacks ever! Very crispy bird skin around a quail egg yolk.

Roasted skin, rhubarb and quail eggs at Daniel Berlin Review

This was one of the top dishes at Daniel Berlin

Yeast pancake with pork and vinegar: this was another morsel that I would have loved to have had 10 of, and actually wake up and have it again for breakfast.

Yeast pancake with pork and vinegar at Daniel Berlin Review

I wanted to eat 10 of these pancakes at Daniel Berlin!

Birds-liver in chestnut and anise: sounds way less appealing than it was and it was in fact delicious. The liver was a very light mousse and was layered between once again think crackers with a subtle sweetness from the chestnuts and thankfully, almost undetectable anise flavour.

Birds-liver in chestnut and anise at Daniel Berlin Review

Small crabs, grilled herbs and cucumber: this was a delicate and velvety crab broth with an oil made from garden plans (whatever that means…) It was very cool how the drops of bright green oil kept opening up and popping in the broth.

Small crabs, grilled herbs and cucumber at Daniel berlin

The oils arrived as little dots and kept opening up, almost like bubbles bursting on the plate, gorgeous!

We then got some delicious honey bread with two butters, cow and goat. Good thing Stewart liked the goat and I liked the saltier cow.

honey bread with two butters at Daniel Berlin Review

Warm and tasty bread with butter sampler

Fallow deer, seaweed and fermented barley: pac man ghost-looking dumplings filled with meat and wrapped in kohlrabi (no dough), with a frozen cabbage dust on top. Yum!

Fallow deer, seaweed and fermented barley at Daniel Berlin Review

Pac man monsters, but still delicious.

Cod, peas, flowers: Daniel always has a cod dish on his menu, prepared differently throughout the seasons.  I was mesmerized by the rainbow colours that stood out from the piece of fish – strange but so gorgeous! That cod was one of the most gorgeous pieces of fish I had ever seen. You could just taste its quality. The fish was salted before being cooked at a very low temperature, which gave the fish the perfect tenderness. Ours was served with unripe currants and peas, but the fish was the main star!

Cod, peas, flowers at Daniel Berlin Review

Daniel Berlin’s signature cod dish

Onion, gooseberries and fresh hazelnut: another dish I would LOVE to eat again and again. It was the lightest and tastiest rendition of a French onion soup, with brilliant sweetness from the way the honey-caramelized onions served with pickled gooseberries and topped with onion and potato-cream with fresh hazelnuts and a juice made of roasted onions. So good!

Onion, gooseberries and fresh hazelnut Daniel Berlin Review

The best “onion soup” of my life!

At this point we were sent outside for a little wonder of the garden where we were handed blankets and a warm and comforting pumpkin, sea buckthorn and carrot soup.

Sprouts roasting on the grill Daniel Berlin Review

Sprouts roasting on the grill

Celeriac, celeriac, celeriac: suddenly the entire dining room stopped, as Daniel Berlin entered the room to prepare his signature dish in front of our eyes. I had read about his celeriac signature dish, and I have to admit it was one of the reasons I was dying to go. I am a complete celeriac addict!  He then spooned out meaty yummy “pulp” from the celeriac that had been on the grill for 8 hours, sweetened with the smoke from burning beech wood. It was served three ways: from the shell they make a celeriac-bread; from the remainder of the root they cook a broth with aged Swedish västerbotten cheese; and from the stem they make an oil that is then drizzled over everything.

Daniel berlin Sweden

Daniel Berlin working on his Celeriac, Celeriac, celeriac dish

Celeriac, Celeriac, celeriac at Daniel berlin

Chanterelles, plums and yeast chestnut: This was insanely good! A toasted chestnut bread and topped with a cream of plums and with the thinnest transparent slice of pig fat laying beautifully on top. This was served with a side of earthy and umami chanterelle mushroom broth that they brewed in a coffee percolator kind of device – I could bathe in it, it was that divine!

Chanterelles, plums and yeast chestnut at Daniel Berlin Review

Toast and pig’s fat – amazing!

The most amazing chanterelle broth at Daniel Berlin Review

Chanterelle broth in the making…..

Partridge, woodruff, elderflowers and Brussel sprouts: the bird had been shot 2 km from the restaurant, and was grilled and served with those Brussel sprouts that had been laying on the grill…..

Partridge, woodruff, elderflowers and Brussel sprouts at Daniel Berlin Review

Partridge with grilled Brussel sprouts

Daniel Berlin Review

Partridge Part 2

Duck from Bokeslund, aronia-berries and cep: thankfully a smallish portion of duck with the thinly sliced mushrooms and berries. We were getting full at this point and ready for dessert.

Duck dish at Daniel Berlin Review

Duck at Daniel Berlin

Even though we thought we didn’t have room for one more course, when we were offered an optional cheese course (charged extra) we could simply not resist. Four tasty cheeses and some home-made jams/chutneys.

Cheese course at Daniel Berlin

Cheese course at Daniel Berlin

Creamy Jerusalem artichoke, pancakes and dewberry: they prepared the pancakes in the centre of the main dining area, infusing the space with an addictive buttery smell. The sweet/savoury pancakes were served with a warm rosehip soup and an ice cream made with shoots from a tree. The little pancakes are commonly eaten in kindergarten (I want to be born a Swedish kid in my next life!) but the kid’s version doesn’t have dewberry (raspberry and blackberry) ice cream or the Jerusalem artichoke.

Jerusalem artichoke dessert pancakes at Daniel Berlin Review

Jerusalem artichoke dessert pancakes

Dewberry ice cream at Daniel Berlin Review

Dewberry ice cream

Salty egg whites in buttermilk: rosemary meringue and salted caramel on top of buttermilk ice cream and goat’s yoghurt. The caramel goat’s yoghurt was intense and unique, and we so used our fingers to clean every last drop from the plate.

Salty egg whites in buttermilk at Daniel Berlin Review

Salty egg whites in buttermilk with best caramel ever

After dessert we were directed outside to the gorgeous greenhouse in the gardens where we relaxed with coffee, Chocolate from Sri Lanka (which got me excited about our upcoming Sri Lanka New Year’s trip) and liqueurs.  This was the perfect ending to our lovely meal.

Chocolates at Daniel Berlin

Tasty dark chocolates from Sri Lanka

We loved our dinner and it was a very interesting contrast to the meal at Noma the previous night. This is a family business, and there are just five chefs in the kitchen (Noma has 70). They serve a few lucky people every night and are merely open for half of the week. There were several dishes that we would love to eat again and again, and as we left, we kept wishing that we could have those pancakes that we had at the start of dinner, for breakfast. Ellinor, who is lovely and works with the team by helping during dinner, also helps with bookings and arranging accommodation for guests in advance, and I would say that staying the night is a must. Driving at midnight after 20 courses, with wine pairings? No way!

Daniel’s food is creative and interesting, but his ingredients are less eclectic than those used at Noma. You don’t see garlic leathers or crickets in the menu, but you do still see creative and delicious ways of using local ingredients. Both meals in our eyes were a 10 overall!

In sum: make a weekend out of it and go! I of course can’t claim it is really the best in Sweden as I haven’t tried many, but certainly it is fantastic and worth a trip. I am also dying to go to Flaviken…..

Daniel Berlin Krog, Skåne-Tranås

Diligensvägen 21, 273 92 Tomelilla, Sweden

Telephone: +46 (0) 41731000

 

The Breakdown

1 Comment

  • Reply November 15, 2015

    Lesley Pittaway

    Looks amazing, I am dying to go. Was it a nightmare to get a reservation? The Swede had suggested we do a weekend away Sweden way…this is on the list, as is Faviken. And Franzen if we are Stockholm-bound. There were a few more on my list, but can’t be bothered to reach for my phone and check. I am sure we can exchange names next meeting 🙂 xx

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