Noma Copenhagen Review – Beating all Food Expectations!

Roasted wild duck was best duck ever at Noma CPH

Our Rating

Noma…..how do I even start to use words to describe the most unique meal of my life? I have been to Alinea, Fat Duck, and several of the best restaurants around the world, and I have had my fair share of foams, spherical foods, infusions and foods served on pillows; but Noma is completely different. Noma doesn’t serve molecular food, they just serve food you either haven’t thought to eat in a certain preparation, or combinations of ingredients you never knew existed. Noma is taking produce in its most simple way, and making it special.

Does Noma serve the type of food I want to eat daily? Thankfully not or I would go bankrupt, but they introduced us to an alternative word of flavours, beautifully prepared and assembled with a common thread of simplicity and purity of produce.

The other thing that was very evident was that each dish was in fact a lot more complex than it looked. A simple burned onion? Oh, no way – it was a very special grilled onion with a very specific technique, its interior infused with pickled oregano flower and walnut oil and potions that were explained to us faster than I could jot down all of the ingredients.

We arrived at the restaurant promptly for our 8pm booking, and as we walked in, we were welcomed by name, not just by the hosts at the entrance but by all the chefs that popped out of the kitchen to greet us!

Entrance at Noma Copenhagen

And let the meal begin!

The view from Noma - breathtaking

The view from Noma – breathtaking

Chefs welcoming us at Noma

Chefs welcoming us at Noma

The atmosphere is cosy and simple, but beautiful and the type of place you are happy to linger in forever. Each dish is served by a different chef who enthusiastically walks you through what you are about to consume, including lists of ingredients that you have never even heard of, or at least haven’t previously eaten (cricket paste?). Thyme oil maybe was the one ingredient we encountered in multiple dishes.

Beautifully simple dining area at Noma

Beautifully simple dining area at Noma

What we ate:

Hip rose and plums: the meal started with some fruit, but not in a traditional way. One of the plums had a strawberry jus and the other had elderflower.

Hip rose and plums at Noma Copenhagen Review

Apples and lemon thyme: roasted apple soup with many other herbs, aromatics and watercress.

Apples and lemon thyme at Noma CPH

Delicious fresh apple soup

At this point I realised I wouldn’t be able to note all ingredients and that by the time I wrote this review and someone visited, the dishes would have then changed already… oh well. So I keep trying but give me some credit as it was not an easy feat….that became even more challenging as the wine/beer/sake pairings went on…

Oland wheat and virgin butter: bread baked with their 12 year old sourdough bread starter (they even celebrate the birthdays) and served with virgin butter, meaning the butter’s first turn so it doesn’t get hard.

Oland wheat and virgin butter

They take bread and butter to a new level at Noma

Cabbage leaves and white currants: This was fascinating and good. Summer cabbage, some of it grilled with parsley oil and miso and layered with grasshopper purée.

Cabbage leaves and white currants at Noma CPH

Many preparations of cabbage with crickets for texture

Green shoots from the forest with scallop marinade: their forager (yes, they have one), goes to the forest and collects leaves. Some were grilled and some were marinated in horseradish juice and they were served atop a smoked scallop emulsion. Once again, surprisingly good and interesting as the various leaves had different textures, some soft and some crunchy and good, paired with the savoury scallop on the plate.

Green shoots from the forest with scallop marinade at Noma CPH

Noma’s version of a simple salad………….

Fresh milk curd, greens and samphire: didn’t love it, forgettable.

Fresh milk curd, greens and samphire at Noma Copenhagen

Grilled onion: didn’t love this dish. The onion was burned outside and we just ate the middle part and despite the oregano oil, it was just too oniony for me.

Grilled onion at Noma

grilled or charred onion at Noma?

Grilled baby corn with cured egg yolk: another one we didn’t love as the small corn still has its husk that kept getting caught between my teeth. The corn was brushed with the yolk and beef garum (fermented sauce) but we couldn’t really taste much of it.

Grilled baby corn with cured egg yolk at Noma CPH

Charred corn Noma style

New Danish potato and nettles: new young potatoes served in a burned nettle leave, and all on top of a yeast and salt crust (not edible) and all with some horseradish cream.  The tool that came with it was a branch, sharp at the end which we used to grab each potato and dip in the cream, which was by far the best part of it all.

New Danish potato and nettles at Noma CPH

Eat your potatoes with a branch!

Sea urchin and hazelnuts: I have become a sea urchin lover since a trip to Sicily two years ago, and even more so when we were in Japan in March. Stewart is still not a fan but said this is was the best he ever tried. (They bring it from the Faroe Islands and wash it multiple times), as it had no underlying metallic taste, and paired perfectly with the thin hazelnut slivers.

Sea urchin and hazelnuts at Noma CPH

Best sea urchin ever at Noma CPH

Monkfish liver: grilled sourdough bread with frozen, brined and smoked shavings of monkfish. And cured. Very strong taste and we thought bordering inedible when not served with the toast but good together, or at least palatable. But once again, unique and interesting.

Monkfish liver toast at Noma

Strong tasting Monkfish liver

Pumpkin, beechnuts, caviar, barley: one perfect rectangle of pumpkin in a rich velvety barley butter sauce with kelp and beechnuts. The nuts were key in the dish and added great texture and flavour. Supposedly there are extremely labour intensive to extract, as they have to be peeled with tweezers.

Pumpkin, beechnuts, caviar, barley at Noma CPH

Too bad beechnuts are so hard to peel, delicious!

Black garlic leather: a beautiful fermented black garlic “flower” a technique they learned when they were in Japan for a Noma Tokyo stint earlier this year. It was a unique gummy texture, and very creative as it was shaped like a leave in origami technique, but not something I woke up the next day craving. It had some lemon thyme and sloe berries on top and was folded origami style.

Black garlic leather at Noma CPH

Black garlic leather….? A Japanese invention

And we got a lesson on how it is done when we toured the kitchen.

 

Roasted wild duck: this and the sea urchin were the two dishes we would want to eat again and again. The roasted duck was hanging from the roof of a shed outside the kitchen, with its fat dripping throughout. It was brushed with a mushroom paste and served whole at the table with gorgeous rectangles of the most gorgeous and juiciest pinkish duck morsels we devoured. They then take the duck away and bring some of its bits back to the table including feet, neck and brains. The brains were actually our favourite and reminded us of foie gras.

Roasted wild duck at Noma CPH

Roasted wild duck was best duck ever at Noma CPH

The duck bits at Noma CPH

Duck bits and pieces………

The duck also came with berries and greens soaked in vinegar for one year including cherries and they were all too sour for us.

berries and greens soaked in vinegar at Noma CPH

More sides served with the duck

On the side, we also got seaweed tarts with fresh walnut which I liked, but Stewart didn’t as he found the hazelnut taste too strong.

 seaweed tarts with fresh walnut at Noma CPH

Walnut and seaweed side

Roasted kelp ice cream sandwiched between a disc made with several ingredients I was at this point too tipsy to write down: we were the fortunate ones to get this dessert, as it came from their test kitchen that tests various dishes and sends to a handful of customers each night.

Roasted kelp ice cream sandwiched between a disc made with several ingredients at Noma CPH

New trial dessert at Noma

A dessert of Gammel Dansk (liquour) and hazelnut oil: ice cream made from traditional Danish bitters and drizzled with apple vinegar and hazelnut oil. A very light and delicate cloud dripped with the caramelized but yet slightly savoury vinegar and oil combination which added a fantastic dimension and tied it all together.

dessert of Gammel Dansk (liquour) and hazelnut oil at Noma CPH

Cloud like dessert at Noma

Forest flavours, chocolate, egg liquor: Rain deer moss dried overnight blanched and cleaned and dipped and cèpe mushrooms dipped in chocolate. We ate the chocolate dipped forest goods in a lovely crème fraîche with seaweed syrup and drank their home-made lemon verbena and egg liqueur.

Forest flavours, chocolate, egg liquor at Noma CPH

Moss and mushrooms dipped in chocolate

They brought us surprise cake for Stewart’s birthday made of almond and yoghurt mousse and malted chocolate which we consumed in the bar before embarking on a kitchen tour. We also had some coffee, which their are, like with everything else, very into and make sure their beans are exceptional and so is the brewing method. I never drink coffee black and usually disguise it with milk and sugar bit not this one! it was perfect by itself, smooth and not bitter at all!

Cake at Noma CPH

Cake time!

Viviane, one of their chefs, came to grab us for our kitchen tour. She is Brazilian, and as a result, fun, spunky and lovely, and was paired with us fortunately because we can chat in Portuguese. Everyone who dines at Noma gets a kitchen tour, where 70 chefs work daily between the prep and main kitchen. They seem like a family, working hard from 7am-past midnight daily, with the goal of producing something amazing for their customers. The chefs also work on their own dishes in the innovation kitchen and present these each week to René Redzepi and the other chefs.

We were really impressed how all the chefs work together, in what apparently is a fun and cheery family environment apart from the Melrose Place aspect of the couples, that obviously form as a result of the long hours and inability of meeting other people who can relate to their travel (Tokyo in 2015, Sidney in 2016 for four month stints). The glue that seems to really bond the family is their dish washer, who knows them all by name and hugs them daily, injecting a strong dose of morning happiness to start the day. René seems revered but very cool too and loved by the chefs.

Kitchen Tour at Noma

From Foosball in the test kitchen to a crazy herb garden – Kitchen Tour at Noma!

In sum: an insanely unique experience in a beautiful setting with impeccable food. I was asked, is it as good as people say? Should I go? The answer is, absolutely, go check it out and experience flavours you never thought existed. On the other hand, it is the type of food, you eat a few times in your life and not what you wake up the next day craving. Did moss become my favourite ingredient to dip in chocolate? I don’t think so, I will stick with peanut butter instead…..And even though we didn’t LOVE every bite of every dish, I believe it still warrants a 10 for rocking the food world and making chefs look at ingredients in a completely new way. Also, a lot of the best chefs trained at Noma and then went on to move their own restaurants in other cities.

On the other hand, we are seriously considering trying to visit Noma Australia, and checking out what concoctions they come up with using the native ingredients.

Noma Copenhagen
Strandgade 93, 1401 København K, Denmark
[mappress “width=99%” mapid=”209″]

The Breakdown

129 Comments

  • Reply November 1, 2015

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    My favourite post yet! I want to go so bad!! xo

  • […] Noma Copenhagen Review – Beating all Food Expectations! […]

  • […] Noma Copenhagen Review – Beating all Food Expectations! […]

  • […] (some chefs have done so while having stints abroad, while others, like René Redzepi from Noma who has  studied local culture and incorporated into his menus previously in Japan and now again […]

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