We have been wanting to go to Isle of Skye for a while, for a weekend full of hiking and beautiful scenery, but my husband also knows well that the way to my heart, and convincing me to take a trip involves bribery, which in my book equates to good food. So, first step was to make sure Three Chimneys Skye had space to accommodate us for dinner. After we had that nailed, we booked hotels, transportation and all those secondary details.
We were also excited to find out that even though the current chef (Michael Smith) was meant to leave in May, he is now leaving in June so we were going to get to try his food.
We started the evening with a drink in their lounge which Stewart wisely compared to a Hamptons setting. Clean, relaxed and with a beach feel to it, which was odd as we were in the mountains, in Scotland. But I guess there are some beaches around…
After a cocktail, we were moved to their other area where the restaurant is. They have two dinner options – one longer set menu and a three course menu, where you get options of starters, mains and dessert for £65. After debating, we went for the short one as there were more dishes that appealed to us. And, with all the extra nibbles and wee tastes they gave us, we were very happy we didn’t go for the longer meal as it was plenty of food.
What we ate
They start the meal with an assortment of snacks, including an isle of mull cheddar scone with trout pate, some anchovy puff-pastry sticks and kipper mousse with herring roe. The scone was very tasty but we didn’t love the other nibbles.
We then got a nice bread assortment. The waiter said it was the first time anyone had ever asked to take a picture of the bread, but I guess he hasn’t been there for long.
The next nibble which they called the first wee taste was probably my favourite part of the meal. It was what they call Cabbie Claw and involved gorgeous lythe fish (Pollack) with bacon sprinkles seating atop a broccoli and potato puree and with a delicate velouté all around. Rich but delicate; comforting and delicious.
West Coast ‘Fruits de Mer’ with Glendale Organic mesclun: this was a platter that included langoustines, oatmeal crusted fried oysters, prawns, fresh oysters, and many other seafood species all served cold with some mesclun for color. It was ok but didn’t blow me away.
Saddle and Leg of Highland Rabbit with asparagus, chicory, hazelnut and apple: way better starter versus the Fruits de Mer platter, but hard to go wrong with very tender rabbit and delicious asparagus with a very mellow sweetness from the apples and hazelnut.
Halibut and squid with potatoes, fennel, carrots, Lobster tomalley and tarragon butter: this was nice but not amazing. Maybe too many flavours on one plate and the sauce was a little heavy.
Loin, rib and haggis pasty of blackface lamb, ramsons, neeps and spring greens: we needed some explanation to understand ramsons (wild garlic) and neeps (root like turnip or swede) but the dish was cute (aka small) and tasty. The various lamb cuts were prepared really well as even for non-haggis lovers, this one was a good version of it.
At this point we got another wee taste from the chef, which was pumpkin seed brittle with apple sorbet and celery mince with some blue cheese mousse. It was super creative and the perfect pre-cheese palate cleanser.
Selection of Artisan Scottish Cheese: James, the assistant to the main waiter ended up helping us most of the evening and was phenomenally friendly and nice. He showed us all the cheeses and said he would give us a piece of each if we wanted. And of course we did. He also gave us bigger morsels as we were sharing the cheese plate and then dessert.
Chocolate brownie soufflé, with vanilla ice cream and hot chocolate sauce: James brought us two portions even though we just had the right of the one we were sharing but he figured it was so tasty we would be fighting over it. We were very full after all the food and questioned if we would eat most of it, but we did. The best part was the rich chocolate sauce we kept pouring on the soufflé.
And of course petit fours to end the meal with traditional Scottish tablet, chocolate coconut truffle and a delicious cinnamon madeleine.
In sum: Three Chimneys is a great dinner option if you are visiting Isle of Skye but probably not worth planning a trip to Skye to eat there. The food was tasty and service was nice but nothing blew us away. The setting outside their windows is absolutely magical……
The Three Chimneys and The House Over-By Colbost, Dunvegan, Isle of Skye, IV55 8ZT
+44 1470 511258